Despite having visited Bali on two previous occasions, this was my first trip to the town of Ubud, and I cannot fathom why I hadn’t ventured here sooner!

Ubud has captivated my heart, transforming it into one of my absolute favourite places on this planet!

The exquisite food tantalised my taste buds, the breathtaking rice field vistas stole my breath away, the intriguing Hindu culture, punctuated by vibrant temple ceremonies, inspired awe, and the warmth of the friendly locals made me feel utterly at home.

​

I fell utterly captivated by Ubud, so much so that I simply had to extend my stay here. Unlike the bustling hubs of Kuta and Legian, Ubud radiates that enchanting ‘hippie’ vibe. It exudes an irresistible coolness and a unique flavour that feels like a cherished memory of what Kuta must have been before the overwhelming wave of mass tourism dulled its charm.

Ubud is about an hour and a half drive North inland from Kuta. Always take a Bluebird taxi. They tend to be regulated better than others. I had to barter heavily over the taxi fare! In fact I had to jump out of 3 taxis (despite agreeing a fare to then have the driver change his mind) before the final price was agreed. 

Most taxi drivers will quote you over 400,000IDR (GB£21/US$28.50) but I managed to negotiate on my third attempt a fare of 250,000IDR (GB£13.50/US$17.80). As it happened the driver had forgotten to turn off his meter and by the time I arrived in Ubud the meter read 241,000IDR. This made me feel the 250,000 initially quoted more palatable.

Where I stayed

There is a huge range of accommodation in Ubud from budget homestays to luxury resorts. I stayed in a beautiful little hotel called WHITE HOUSE BUNGALOWS.  It’s sandwiched between Monkey Forest Road and Hanoman Road; a little oasis hidden behind the shops and busy main roads, with its own swimming pool.

What does Ubud Offer?

Ubud isn’t your typical tourist trap demanding an exhaustive to-do list. Spare yourself the pressure of “must-dos”—if you simply indulge in delightful meals, stroll through lush rice fields, and treat yourself to a massage, you’ve scored a triumphant Ubud experience, in my eyes. But if you’re itching for some excitement, don’t worry—Ubud has a plethora of activities that will keep your adrenaline pumping if that’s what you crave.

RICE FIELD WALK

Another pleasant walk is on a path through the rice fields towards Sari Organik farm and restaurant.  There are lots of cafes along the way where you can enjoy a drink or meal with a view. You can also start at the far end of Jalan Kajeng and loop around to Sari Organik. The downside is that motorbikes drive on these narrow paths.

SARASWATI TEMPLE AND LOTUS POND

The centre of Ubud is busy but you can find beautiful tranquil spots. Located right behind Starbucks you will discover the Hindu  lotus pond at Saraswati temple.  Entry is free. Take the time to wander around and you might be surprised by what you find.

RENT A SCOOTER

This is by far the easiest and cheapest way to see the surrounding countryside. You could walk or cycle, but it is much cooler on the back of a bike. Scooter rental is so cheap. It cost me 50,000IDR (GB£2.35/US$3.10) for the entire day, and, I did not have to produce my licence or leave any deposit.

Fuel for the scooter is cheap too. Along the roadside you will find vendors selling fuel for around 10,000IDR (GB0.50p/US$0.70)

​

The traffic in Ubud can be crazy so if you are a beginner practice on the quieter streets outside town, and ask someone to show you the basics.

THE MONKEY FOREST

I was initially apprehensive about facing the legendary monkeys, but what unfolded was an exhilarating journey through a lush forest adorned with ancient temples and magnificent banyan trees, reminiscent of an Indiana Jones adventure! The thrill of the unknown heightened the experience, but remember to stay vigilant around the monkeys; their playful yet slightly aggressive nature demands respect. Ensure you keep everything secured—no loose items like bags, sunglasses, or cameras—and you’ll find that these enchanting creatures will leave you in peace, allowing you to fully immerse yourself in this breathtaking encounter.

PURA GUNUNG KAWI TEMPLE

This 11th Century temple features shrines carved into the rock at the bottom of a river valley. The walk is not for the faint hearted.  It is an intense walk down the steps to the valley floor, and, even harder to ascend the steps again!

It is a 30 minute drive from Ubud and is worth combining with Tirta Empul (below).  Get there early to avoid the crowds and souvenir sellers. Entry is 50,000IDR (GB£2.25/US$3.10) 

TIRTA EMPUL WATER TEMPLE

The water temple Tirta Empul, nestled near Gunung Kawi, is the ultimate spot for Balinese Hindus seeking a divine cleanse in its supposedly holy waters. It’s not just any temple; it’s a spiritual sanctuary that demands your respect. But beware—dress code enforcement is serious business here. Forget exposing your shoulders, especially you ladies, and make sure those knees are under wraps too. This isn’t just a casual visit; it’s a pilgrimage that calls for proper attire.

At the entrance to the water temple staff hand out sarongs, for a donation, before you can enter any of the temples. Entry is 75,000IDR (GB£3.40/US$4.50).

TEGENUNGAN WATERFALL

The waterfall may not be massive, but the scenery is absolutely stunning, and let me tell you, I reveled in a refreshing paddle in the pool. Arrive early if you want to dodge the swarming tourists; trust me, you don’t want to be caught in that chaos. It’s just a quick 25-minute drive from Ubud, and I made the most of it by pairing this trip with visits to the breathtaking Tirta Empul Water and Pura Gunung temples.

Shopping in Ubud

There are plenty of tacky souvenir shops in Ubud but there are also high quality boutiques selling clothes, jewellery, yoga gear, and home furnishings. You will find plenty of options on Hanoman, Goutama, and Monkey Forest Roads.

For cheap clothes and souvenirs head to the central market on Jalan Raya, but be prepared to barter over the price.

For grocery shopping on Hanoman Road is a large grocery store called Coco were can purchase all things from fruit to bread, to toiletries to alcohol.

Final Word

Anyone who takes the time to visit Ubud will undeniably fall head over heels for this enchanting place. Once you navigate through the bustling traffic that occasionally chokes the vibrant roads of Monkey Forest and Hanoman, the town reveals its true magic, captivating your heart and soul.

The town is a breath of fresh air compared to the overcrowded resorts of Kuta and Legian, and let’s be real, it’s easier on the wallet too. The scent of the air invigorates your senses, and the restaurants and cafes ooze a laid-back vibe that you won’t find in the bustling tourist traps. Do yourself a favour, and carve out some time for Ubud. Unlike my hasty decision, I didn’t originally plan for a long stay, but luck was on my side and I managed to stretch my itinerary for a little more adventure.

Other links: Indonesia Homepage | Asia Homepage | Destinations Homepage | Main Home