Getting around Siem Reap

By far the cheapest and best way to get around Siem Reap is by Tuk-Tuk.

Cambodian tuk-tuks are unlike those seen in Malaysia or Thailand. These are literally a motorbike with a trailer attached to the back of the bike. Although the ‘ride’ appeared ominous the actual experience was great and surprisingly I felt quite safe riding the back on the six mile trip from the airport.

What does Siem Reap Offer?

Siem Reap’s  main area is located off a street named ‘Pub Street’.   This is a lively street fringed on both sides with restaurants and bars, some offering live music.  

Food and Drink here is cheap! And I mean cheap! All the restaurants and bars offer free WIFI.  Just ask for the access codes.   There are a few other streets that run off this main drag that are also lined with restaurants. During the day it has a more relaxed atmosphere whereby people tend to just sit back and sup beers and snacks.  Of an evening Pub Street becomes a hive of entertainment with street acts and market vendors setting up their stalls.

Siem Reap additionally has some great night markets offering all kinds of local souvenirs from typical key rings, fridge magnets to T-Shirts and some beautiful oil paintings.  If you are going to purchase any souvenirs in the night markets remember to haggle.  Unlike in some countries its all done in good spirits and is not offensive.  Barter hard and reap (no pun intended) the rewards.  I wanted a canvas oil painting that I bartered with the market owner for two days before we eventually mutually agreed upon a price!

As for food, there are numerous places and to be honest you will have trouble deciding where to dine.  There is everything from traditional Cambodian and Asian food to Pasta to pizza to Mexican.  Beer is cheap.  Vast majority offer ‘Happy Hour’ where pints of the local beer are 50 US cents each!

Below are some of my favourite spots to dine and people watch all on Pub Street…

Khmer Family Restaurant

granted I have not eaten here; only to drink their US50c (GB 39p) beers.  This is a relaxed spot half-way down Pub Street. Of an evening a group of Indian men play music on traditional instruments.

TEMPLE BAR

is a relaxed 2 storey bar however once the sun sets the venue become lively with traditional Apsara dancing shows.  The crowd tends to be a little younger.

THE SUN RESTAURANT

is located on the cross roads of Pub Street opposite the ‘Red Piano’ bar and restaurant. The Sun is a very cool place to dine and has an extremely good mix of local and Western cuisine.

BANANA LEAF

like pretty much all the venues down Pub Street the Banana Leaf offers relaxed dining of a day time, however, from the evening the venue hires live music, all tastefully done, that attracts vast crowds and becomes quite the lively spot.

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Temples of Angkor

This is heaven on Earth.  The primary reason for any tourist to visit Siem Reap is its close proximity to the holy Buddhist and Hindu temples of Angkor.

To visit each one thoroughly would take a couple of days but it can be done in one very long day.  There are organised tours or you can do a self tour were all you need to do is hire a driver for the day.  This is what I did.  Tuk-Tuk drivers will escort you around all the sights and wait for you at each one.  Most drivers will do this for around US$15 (GB£12) for the day with a US$5 tip at the end.  Most speak very little English so don’t expect any in-depth conversation or history to be explained.  If you want to explore the temples but want the cool atmosphere of a mini-van then you can hire one of these for around US$30 (GB£24) for the day.  I opted for this as the Cambodian heat and humidity can be quite relentless.

Angkor Wat Temple

The temple is the heart and soul of Cambodia. It is the national symbol, the epicentre of Khmer civilisation and a source of fierce national pride. The temple of Angkor is even depicted on the national flag.  Reaching skyward and surrounded by a moat Angkor Wat was never abandoned to the elements and has been in virtually continuous use since it was built.

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It’s simply unique, it is a stunning blend of spirituality and symmetry, an enduring example of humanity’s devotion to its gods. Relish the very first approach to the entrance, as that spine-tickling moment when you emerge on the inner causeway will rarely be felt again. It is the best-preserved temple at Angkor, and repeat visits are rewarded with previously unnoticed details.

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Many booked tours will offer a Sunrise experience.  The day starts early around 5am to savour all its majesty.   A precautionary word.  At the entrance to some of the temples you may encounter tour guides and touts who will offer their services for a price.  I declined their advances.​

Allow at least 2 hours to thoroughly explore.

TA PROHM TEMPLE

Ta Prohm is also known for another reason.  This is nick-named the ‘Lara Croft’  temple as the film Lara Croft: Tomb Raider was filmed here.  Ta Prohm is cloaked in dappled shadows, its crumbling towers and walls locked in the slow muscular embrace of vast root systems.  Built in 1186, for me, this is undoubtedly the most atmospheric ruin at Angkor, Ta Prohm should be high on the hit list of every visitor.  Its appeal lies in the fact that, unlike the other monuments of Angkor, it has been swallowed by the jungle.

Ta Prohm is at its most impressive early in the day. Allow as much as two hours to visit, especially if you want to explore the maze-like corridors and iconic tree roots.

ANGKOR THOM TEMPLE

WOW!  Were my first words when I lay eyes on this temple.  Angkor Thom is huge. Allow a minimum of 2-3 hours.  At the heart of Angkor Thom is the 12th century ‘Bayon’, a mesmerising temple of Jayavarman 7th (a Cambodian King).  Its 54 Gothic towers are decorated with 216 gargantuan smiling faces of Avalokiteshvara.  Angkor Thom is quadrangle of defensive walls totaling  7.5 miles (12 kilometres) that once protected the Khmer capital of the same name (Angkor Thom means ‘Great City’).

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Every wall of Angkor Thom depicts scene’s of Cambodia back in its day.  The famous carvings on the outer wall of the first level show vivid scenes of everyday life in 12th century Cambodia.

On the first tier, Khmer soldiers march off to battle – check out the elephants and the oxcarts, which are almost exactly like those still used in Cambodia today.  The second tier depicts coffins being carried back from the battlefield.  In the centre of the third tier, Jayavarman 7th, shaded by parasols, is shown on horseback followed by legions of concubines.

The Naval Battle panel has some of the best-carved reliefs. The scenes depict a naval battle between the Khmers and the Chams and everyday life around Tonlé Sap lake, where the battle was fought.  Look for images of people picking lice from each other’s hair, of hunters and, towards the western end of the panel, a woman giving birth.

​In the Chams Vanquished, scenes from daily life are featured while the battle between the Khmers and the Chams takes place on the shore of Tonlé Sap lake, where the Chams are soundly thrashed.  Scenes include two people playing chess, a cockfight and women selling fish in the market. The scenes of meals being prepared and served are in celebration of the Khmer victory.

Angkor Thom South Gate

The south gate of Angkor Thom is the best preserved. It is approached from outside via a causeway that runs roughly 164 feet across a moat. On each side of the causeway are railings decorated with stone figures.  On the left side of the moat ‘guardian gods’ pull the head of the snake ‘Shesha’ while on the right side ‘demon gods’ pull the snake’s tail in the opposite direction.

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The central tower of the stone gate is capped by three face-towers that face the four directions.  Below them at the base of the gate are two sets of elephant statues that flank the entrance on both sides.  Sitting on each elephant is a figure of the god Indra carrying his usual weapon, the ‘vadra’ (a lightning bolt).  The gate itself is shaped like an upside-down ‘U’.  It is still possible to see where wooden doors once fitted to the gate through openings in the stone.

GETTING AROUND SIEM REAP

All the main attractions in Siem Reap (other than Angkor Wat) are easily reached on foot, especially in the historical part of the city. There are some transportation options, though.

Tuk-tuk – For trips around Siem Reap, tuk-tuks and motorbike taxis should cost around US$2 (GB£1.70) for short trips and around US$9 (GB£7.60) from the airport into town. Negotiate your fare up front to ensure you don’t get ripped off. A day’s hire of a tuk-tuk from the town around the major temples at Angkor Wat and back should cost around US$15-25 (GB£12.70-GB£21). For a guided day, expect to pay closer to US$25 (GB£21).

Taxis – Most of the taxis in Siem Reap don’t have meters, so the cost of your journey will vary. In general though taxis are more expensive than tuk-tuks. A taxi to the airport will cost about US$10 (GB£8.45). You can also hire taxis for the day to take you around Angkor Wat, which costs from US$25 (GB£19). If you want to get to other temples like Banteay Srei the cost can be as high as US$50 (GB£38) per day.

Bicycle – You can rent a bicycle here for less than US$5 (GB£3.80) a day. You can find rental shops in the Old Market. Some hotels even have free bicycle rentals.

My Thoughts

This was my first visit to Siem Reap and to Cambodia itself.  I had high expectations of what my whirl-wind visit would ​conger.  Siem Reap did not disappoint.  In fact, the region exceeded my expectations.  The city is compact, cheap and the locals friendly.  I have fallen in love with this place and the temples of Angkor just filled me with such glee and wonder.  I genuinely do not think I have felt so overwhelmed with architecture in my life – just simply stunning.   Cambodia has certainly become one of my favourite places in the world and Siem Reap, the people and the culture has won my heart.