San Francisco, perched in Northern California on the West Coast, is not just another city—it’s a living postcard flanked by the unforgiving Pacific Ocean and the vibrant San Francisco Bay.

Renowned for its steep hills and relentless fog, the city flaunts its iconic Golden Gate Bridge and those wildly colourful Victorian houses.

But don’t be fooled by the picturesque façade; the Financial District’s Trans-America Pyramid looms like a giant middle finger to the skyline, a bold testament to ambition and greed. And just a stone’s throw away in the bay lies Alcatraz Island, the haunting relic of a once-infamous prison, forever shadowing the city with whispers of its dark past.

San Francisco isn’t just one of my all-time favourite cities in the USA; it’s a gem in the crown of the world. A mere 12-hour flight from the UK, it’s a paradise that’s difficult to resist. This city oozes a laid-back yet modern vibe, reveling in its own unique allure. With the Pacific coastline at its doorstep, it boasts hidden coves and stunning beaches just waiting to be discovered. And let’s not forget about the transportation; its well-connected, pedestrian-friendly layout makes this city a playground for those eager to explore every nook and cranny on foot.

What really gets my blood pumping when I hit a new city is tearing through it on foot. I mean, there’s nothing quite like the thrill of wandering the streets of San Francisco, where every arduous climb up those steep hills isn’t just a workout—it’s the payoff to explosive views of stunning architecture and the breathtaking bay below. Forget the tour bus; give me the grit of the streets any day!

Nonetheless, there are plenty of specific attractions to include on your must-see list too. Union Square and its shopping district, China Town and its mouth-watering food. The Golden Gate Park with its museums and landscaped gardens. And, of course, the Golden Gate Bridge – walk, cycle or drive over this magnificent structure for an unforgettable view of an unforgettable city.

San Francisco is a playground of endless adventures, and frankly, who has the time to jot down every thrilling moment when the real fun is out there waiting to be explored? So, let’s cut to the chase: I’ll share what truly captivated me and the must-see highlights that sparked my joy in this city.

WHAT CAN SAN FRANCISCO OFFER?

ALCATRAZ

Over the decades it’s been the nation’s first military prison, a forbidding maximum-security prison and disputed territory between Native American activists and the FBI.

It all started innocently enough back in 1775, A Spanish lieutenant sailed the San Carlos past the 22-acre island he called Isla de Alcatraces (Isle of the Pelicans). In 1859 a new post on Alcatraz became the first US West Coast fort, and soon proved handy as a holding pen for Civil War deserters, insubordinates and those who had been court-martialed. Among the prisoners were Native American scouts.  

When the 18th Amendment to the Constitution declared selling liquor a crime in 1922.  In 1934 the Federal Bureau of Prisons took over Alcatraz as a prominent showcase for its crime-fighting efforts. ‘The Rock’ averaged only 264 inmates, but its roster read like an America’s Most Wanted list. A-list criminals doing time on Alcatraz included Chicago crime boss Al Capone, dapper kidnapper George Kelly, hot-headed Harlem mafioso and sometime poet ‘Bumpy’ Johnson, and Morton Sobell, the military contractor found guilty of Soviet espionage along with Julius and Ethel Rosenberg.

Today you can hear accounts of daily life in the Alcatraz lockup are included on the award-winning audio tour. During the audio tour take off your headphones for just a moment, and notice the sound of carefree city life travelling across the water: this is the torment that made perilous escapes into rip tides worth the risk.

Though Alcatraz was considered escape-proof, in 1962 the Anglin brothers and Frank Morris floated away on a makeshift raft and were never seen again. Security and upkeep proved prohibitively expensive, and finally the island prison was abandoned to the birds in 1963.

Visit the official website for tours and tickets prices. A day tour will set you back US$47.95 (GB£36.50).

Native Americans claimed sovereignty over the island in the ’60s, noting that Alcatraz had long been used as a spiritual retreat. On the eve of Thanksgiving 1969, 79 Native American activists swam to the island and took it over. During the next 19 months, some 5600 Native Americans would visit the occupied island. Public support eventually pressured President Richard Nixon to restore Native territory and strengthen self-rule for Native nations in 1970.  Today the cell blocks, ‘This Is Indian Land’ water-tower graffiti and rare wildlife are all part of the attraction.

LOMBARD STREET

has dubbed this ‘the world’s crookedest street‘, that makes me smile as tourists clearly have not been to Europe! Possibly the most crookedest street in North America?

Lombard Street has a scenic red-brick pavement and lovingly tended flowerbeds. Apparently the street was straight and did not alter until the introduction of cars.

GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE

This has to be San Francisco’s signature landmark. When I arrived from Santa Monica in a convertible car the first thing I did was to drive across the entire length of the bridge and back again before I has to retire back to the hire company. As far as best views go San Franciscan’s prefer the north-end lookout at Marin’s Vista Point, to watch fog billow through bridge cables.  

GOLDEN GATE PARK AND CRISSY FIELDS

was a military airstrip turned waterfront nature preserve with knockout Golden Gate views.  Where military aircraft once zoomed in for landings, bird-watchers now huddle in the silent rushes of a reclaimed tidal marsh.

Joggers pound the beach side trails and the only security alerts are raised by puppies suspiciously sniffing surfers. On foggy days, stop by the certified green Warming Hut to browse regional-nature books and warm up with coffee.

FISHERMANS WHARF AND PIER 39

The focal point of Fisherman’s Wharf are carnival-like attractions, shops and restaurants of Pier 39 – and, of course, the famous sea lions. Developed in the 1970s, the pier draws thousands of tourists daily, but it’s really just a big outdoor shopping mall. Use this link for Wharf recommendations.

The sea lions took over this coveted waterfront real estate in 1989 and these squatters have been making a public display ever since – canoodling, belching, scratching their backsides and gleefully shoving one another off the docks – becoming San Francisco’s favourite mascots. And because California law requires boats to make way for marine mammals, yacht owners have had to relinquish valuable slips to accommodate the as many as 1300 sea lions that ‘haul out’ onto the docks between January and July. 

UNION SQUARE

High end stores ring Union Square now, but this people-watching plaza was once a hotbed of protest. One thing you must do is dine at ‘The Cheesecake Factory‘ at the top of Macy’s.  Be warned it becomes extremely busy so if you are in the city for a few days book a table in advance to not disappoint. If available, and weather permitting, request a table with a view over Union Square.

POWELL STREET CABLE CAR

Stand a while at Powell and Market Streets and spot arriving cable car operators leaping out, gripping the trolleys’ chassis and slowly turning the car atop a revolving wooden platform.

Cable cars cannot go in reverse, so they need to be turned around by hand here at the terminus of Powell St lines. Riders queue up mid-morning to early evening here to secure a seat, with raucous street performers and doomsday preachers on the sidelines as entertainment.

Cable cars depart every five to 10 minutes at peak times. Powell-Mason cars are quickest to the Wharf, but Powell-Hyde cars traverse more terrain and hills.

THE CASTRO DISTRICT

A short hop on the underground  and you will find yourself at The Castro. For decades, the City by the Bay has been a global focus for gay nightlife, culture and politics. Visitors today can explore the Castro, where it all began, and then see how the scene has spread well beyond its roots to locations across San Francisco.  

Shops, bars, restaurants, hotels and clubs all cater to the pink dollar, ensuring a gay old time for any traveller to the city. I spent around 2 hours in a bar which happened to be having a ‘pub’ quiz. A friend and I were the only 2 Brit’s present in this bar that allowed us to become the brunt of some unoffensive banter by the Drag Queen quiz master. 

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