GETTING AROUND ISTANBUL?

Istanbul is a city best explored by foot and meandering the streets is the best way to see the sights. If you want to travel any reasonable distance then the tram network is very reliable or use the efficient ferry crossing to the Asian side.

When trying to establish where to stay and what to see is daunting as Istanbul is massive and a little overwhelming from the hustle and bustle of traffic and crowds! If your time is short then I have come the conclusion, as a tourist, there are three distinct areas to visit all offering something a little different.

The European Side: (1) The Old City of Serkeci (where I chose to stay). This is home to the Hagia Sophie Mosque and Blue Mosque, The Underground Cistern, the Spice Bazaar and the Grand Bazaar along with other historic sites. (2) The Golden Horn across the Galata Bridge offers the Galata Tower and the areas of Karakoy and Taksim Square. This is a more modern area of Istanbul with a long high street lined with the staple retail establishments like H&M, Starbucks and Prada.

The European side is very conservative in the way the locals conduct their lives. Market and shop traders have a habit to pressure or hard sell you into buying something. Locating alcohol and tobacco is a real expedition within itself as very few venues sell these items.

The Asian Side: (3) Kadikoy. Kadikoy is incredible and what I felt as the ‘real’ Istanbul. It has a young feel about it. It’s fun, liberal and relaxed. There are bars and pubs, cafes to restaurants, from shops to markets. It’s much cheaper than the European side and market and shop sellers do not hassle or pressure you into a sale. They pretty much leave you to browse.

Be mindful there is Karakoy district and Kadikoy district.

What can Istanbul offer?

EUROPEAN SIDE – THE OLD CITY

Hagia Sophia Mosque

Also known as the Aya Sophia used to be the largest Orthodox church in the world for 1000 years. After being invaded by the Ottoman Empire the Hagia Sophia was converted into a mosque. Visiting this place you can easily find remnants of Orthodox on the walls. The main highlights of Hagia Sophia are its majestic domes and magnificent mosaics leave you in awe. Get there early to beat the long line of people wishing to visit. From Serkeci at the hotel I walked following the tram line. It took roughly 20 minutes.

The Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii)

Built in the early 17th century it’s one of the most beautiful among the mosques and is also a symbol of Istanbul. The reason for its name Blue Mosque is because the mosque is paved with 20,000 blue glazed tiles with more than 50 different tulip designs decorated throughout the building. Like many other mosques inside the Blue Mosque there is the tomb of Sultan (King) Ahmed I. At the time I visited Istanbul the Blue Mosque was under renovation with a lot of scaffolding on the inside.

The Basilica Cistern

The Basilica Cistern is a famous underground structure that has appeared in many TV series and films. Previously it was an underground water lake for the people of Istanbul then forgotten for a few centuries and now is a tourist attraction.

The space is in darkness but is lit by lamps illuminating hundreds of stone pillars built by the ancient Romans. There is a stone pillar with an upside down Medusa head statue.

Tickets cost 190 Lira (GB£9.00). You can buy tickets at the venue or using the website.

Gulhane Park

Like Central Park to New York City. Hyde Park to London is Gulhane Park to Istanbul. This is a beautiful park adjacent to Hagia Sophia mosque were you can wander the plants and shrubs to have a bit of time-out from the crowds.

Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar is the largest undercover market in the world with almost 60 alleyways to navigate. From the maps this area of the Old Town looks a long walk way from the mosques but in reality it only took about 10 minutes. The Grand Bazaar is huge with narrow alley ways meandering like a rabbits warren through the old cobbled streets. It is closed on Sundays. It opens anytime from 8am up until 8pm. The Grand Bazaar offers anything from clothing to leather goods, trinkets to brightly decorated crockery.

Spice Market

For myself the Spice Bazaar was literally across the street from my hotel ‘The Mest’. It’s a riot for the senses. Built in 1664 it boasts avenues lined with stalls offering all sorts of herbs, spices, teas and Turkish Delight treats. Unless you’re a serious buyer try not to catch a sellers eye otherwise you can be tempted, without realising, into their shop and pressured to buy goods.

Galata Bridge

A historic bridge crossing Golden Horn Bay connects the Old City with the modern northern part of Istanbul. The bridge is a connection between the ancient part of the city and the newer part. Taking in a stroll along the bridge you can easily encounter the idyllic life of the people of Istanbul. Witness many fishermen casting their lines, they fish during the day and resell to the restaurants below. Soak in the ancient backdrop of the old city during sunset. Unless you’re happy to pay a premium for food then I suggest not eating here as it is rather expensive.

EUROPEAN SIDE – THE GOLDEN HORN

The Golden Horn is the area across the Galata Bridge which is the newer area of Istanbul. It’s home to the area of Karakoy, Taksim Square and the Galata Tower. Getting to Karakoy is pretty easy and affordable. You can either walk over the Galata Bridge (great for a sunset walk), or, like myself, took the tram over the bridge from Eminonu tram stop (opposite the train station) to Kabatas tram stop (4 stops). It took about 20 mins costing TL15 (70p). The trams are air-conditioned but do become very congested onboard.

From here cross the main road and walk up the hill. It’ll get the blood pumping for sure but it will lead you to Taksim Square. From here you can take a leisurely stroll along the Main High Street lined with all the usual high street shops – National and International. Eventually it will lead you back down through the area of Karakoy towards the harbour front at the Galata Bridge.

TAKSIM SQUARE

Unlike the beauty of Sultanahmet Square Taksim Square is modern Istanbul. It’s busy and crowded and open to the occasional protest. From the top there is Taksim Mosque and the turn-around for the Karakoy cable car. Taksim Mosque is a new site only built in 2017.

GALATA TOWER

The Galata Tower was completed in 1348 was once the tallest tower in Istanbul. It becomes extremely busy with visitors. You can buy tickets online here. Galata Tower is one of the prominent sights that make up the The Golden Horn skyline. Visitors can ascend the tower that offers 360 degree panoramic vistas of the city. Around the tower are a selection of eateries, tourist shops and pubs selling the odd alcoholic refreshment.

ASIAN SIDE – KADIKOY

Where can I start? Every introduction ever written about Istanbul touts that it’s the only city in the world to span two continents but how many tourists actually make it to the Asian side? Perhaps they find the transcontinental commute a little daunting. I’m here to tell you that it’s about time to wave goodbye to the pushy carpet salesmen and overpriced alcohol of European Istanbul and hop a ferry across to Kadikoy.

After exploring the European side of the city I truly felt as if I’d discovered the Istanbul I was so searching for. Kadikoy is filled to the brim with cafes, record stores, antique dealers, quirky jewellery shops, used bookstores, and cinemas. There’s a nostalgic tram that slowly loops around the Kadikoy centre but the area can easily be explored on foot. The Asian side is hip and cool but not in a way where the flamboyant facial hair of the locals cause a stare. Think Brighton but less hippy and you’ll be almost there. Kadikoy is considerably cheaper than the European side too!

How to get to Kadikoy?

Crossing the Bospherous Strait is very cheap, easy and fairly quick. It’s a great way to sit on the top-deck of the ferry and observe the views looking towards the Asian side and back towards the European side. The ferry docks adjacent to the Haydarpasa Railway Station and Pier.

To find your way to the ferry terminal walk down towards the docks at the Galata Bridge. There are newpaper stands that sell ferry tickets priced at TL32.50 (GB£1.60) return. The ferry crossings are busy but extremely frequent so you won’t be waiting too long at all. The ferry docks at the last ferry terminal nearest the Galata Bridge and takes around 20 minutes. On the return journey the ferry stops at Karakoy district on The Golden Horn to pick-up/drop-off passengers, but is direct going out.

On the return crossing I used to alight at Karakoy ferry terminal and walk back over the Galata Bridge admiring the setting sun and the backdrop of the mosque against the orange sky.

The short walk from the dock to the main area of Kadikoy only takes a couple of minutes. It’s a hive of activity with locals and visitors going about their day. The best way to explore this district is to just walk and ‘get lost’ wondering the streets that criss-cross the area stopping for a bite to eat or a beer. Alcohol is everywhere in Kadikoy and it’s cheap.

Nothing quite quenches the thirst than that ice-cold beer from the intensity of the Summer heat. Just head to ‘Gunesli Bahce Street‘ or ‘Piri Çavuş Street‘.

Kadikoy Street Market

The streets of Kadikoy criss-cross the district that is easy to become lost. A good rule of thumb was to locate ‘Ziyabey Sokak Street‘ or the traffic free ‘Bahariye Street’ can be considered as the most lively and famous place in Kadikoy. There is also an old fashioned tram operating from Kadikoy harbour. You may find variety of lovely cafes, pubs, bars and restaurants as well as quality shops. You will discover an undercover market that predominantly sells trainers, clothes and leather goods, but you’ll also stumble upon the odd market seller with a table set up offering small items such a purses and wallets along with polo shorts. I cannot reiterate how much fun it is just wondering the streets stumbling upon something with each turn.

Istanbul Street Food

Whether it’s due to Istanbul spanning across two continents there are many unique culinary features that are difficult to find anywhere else in the world. Among them are Doner kebab, fish sandwich, Baklava, Lechmakum and Kumpir to just name a few, let alone the beverages Turkish coffee served with Turkish Delights, Pomegranate juice and Turkish Tea all accompanied by a Shisha or Hookah as it’s locally known. The street food is delicious and is all cooked fresh as you wait.

Lechmakum

Turkish style pizza is known as signature street food and is served everywhere. Placed on top of the pizza base is minced lamb stir fried with spices, chopped chili, coriander and squeezed on a little lemon juice to enhance the flavour, often served with a salty yoghurt drink called Ayran. Roll up the pizza and enjoy. It really is delicious. I had several and is great for a lunch snack as it’s not too filling or heavy.

Two venues to consider are Borsam visible by its green awning, and, Ciya Kebap.

Baklava

Baklava in Turkey is a layered pastry dessert made of filo pastry and filled with chopped nuts and sweetened with syrup or honey. This is must try food.

Kumpir

In Istanbul there is a popular street food called Kumpir. Kumpir is definitely not your ordinary baked potato. It starts with an enormous potato that is sliced in the middle for a generous smearing of butter and cheese and is finished off with an overwhelming assortment of toppings. Common toppings you’ll see at street stalls are corn, pickled vegetables, pickled beets, olives, hotdogs and a dollop of yoghurt.

Corn and Sesame seed bagels

This is a traditional Turkish bread and is often used for breakfast. A kind of soft and spongy bread is formed in a ring shape sprinkled with sesame seeds on top and baked. You can buy them at street food vendors or pastry shops. Nearby you’ll also discover stands offering full corn on the cobs or Chestnuts.

Turkish Coffee

Turkish coffee not to be mixed with boiling water as usual. Turkish coffee has a slightly bitter taste and very strong. Once you drink to the bottom of the cup you will see a layer of coffee paste due to coffee powder settling. It is often served with a glass of water and Turkish delights.

Fish Sandwich at Galata Bridge

There are several gold decorated boats along the Galata Bridge selling the fish caught direct from the Bospherous. I have to admit I’m not a fan of fish so I didn’t partake in this but the fish sandwiches look like fried fish served on a bun with some lettuce.

Turkish Delights

There are commercial shops and market sellers all supplying the masses with an awe inspiring selection of Turkish Delights. If you end up shopping for some at the Spice Market then the market traders are very welcoming to you sampling them as you go along.

Sweet Treats

If you find you need a little sugar boost from all the exploring try these two sweet treats. Lokmaci are little ring doughnuts served in honey, and Berliner which are cream filled pastries. Delicious!

I wasn’t exactly sure what to think of Istanbul initially. The city is busy, crowded where East meets West. After visiting the sights around the European side of the city I felt I was still missing something. Thankfully, making the decision to visit the Asian side was a good one and Istanbul gave me that certain ‘Je ne sais quoi’ I was eagerly searching for. Yes, you must visit all the attractions. Why wouldn’t you? After all this is Istanbul. That said the ‘real’ Istanbul was waiting on the Asian side.

Return to: HOME | EUROPE MENU | DESTINATIONS MENU